Generic Viagra and the Shaggy Dog Story

A  weary,  shabby  senior dog  was lay in the shade  under a window.  an insect flew around his  nose and he changed his position, in his sleep,  restlessly. He could  distinguish people moving above him  chatting and  chuckling and  the sound of female and male skins one on the other. He changed the position of his old bones and  understood the voices  stopped laughing to start being more fervent.
yes yes! The  gentleman in the  bedroom above was  gasping  avidly. The dog noticed that this was the  more content  boy he had heard in a few months. Slowly all the  whispers had sounded  disillusioned and there had been discontented  sounds resonating around the  place.
“Oh sweetheart” the woman  shouted, “That was  wonderful!” He heard the  hands caressing each other. Both the  gentleman and the lady  moaned with  passion and rested on the bed.
“Oh apprehensive that this  condition of not being able to maintain an erection would go on forever.” The  guy said, “But I  bought a new medication from the Internet,  sweetheart and made the decision to try it.”
“What is it?” she  demanded and the dog heard a package being passed across the room. “This,” said the gentleman, “Generic Viagra. I  found a website that  explained my  condition of erectile dysfunction and it  explained that generic cialis or generic Viagra would  help me to  recover my sexual life so I decided to  try it and I  am prepared for showing you new sexual abilities.” He was lazily caressing the woman’s arm and she  giggled.
“You  employ another of these marvelous tablets” she laughed, I  desire more sexy movements.
“I don’t need to it is a long-lasting pill” he said and threw the  box aside and  they made love again.
What he didn’t  discover was that the  package  had landed on the window sill and teetered slightly before dropping to the ground, right next to the old dog’s leg. He  sniffed them. He remembered that it had been a while since he had  met and  wished to show if he could  enjoy some of this good  sexy moment. In a gulp, he took the  lozenges,  box and all and sat around to wait and expect for a marvelous moment.
Some minutes later, he  was hot and wanted to find the poodle that lived n the next door and sure enough, there she was. They sniffed each other and  they enjoyed sex as the man in the room had done some minutes before.
“Well old dog, “you can’t teach an old dog new tricks, but there is  sexual pleasure certainly life in this old dog!”

Housing your Canine Friend: Chose the Perfect Dog House

Dogs have been one of the most popular house pets from ages and taking care of a dog involves showing him proper care and attention to all of his needs and housing is one of the primary needs of every animal. When it comes to dog houses, you can find many adequate solutions to take proper care of your dog抯 housing necessities while keeping to you budget, if that is an issue.

Dog houses can be interior or exterior, depending on the type of habitation you have, dog houses can be located inside your own home or outside it.
They can also be all of shapes and materials. The most popular exterior dog houses are simple wooden ones, simply composed by four walls a roof and a door. Cement dog houses have been widely used as well and have been very popular means of dog housing for years as aluminium ones have but both have proven to be very inefficient dog houses since they both were not comfortable for the pet.
Cement dog houses have proven to be very cold during winter while aluminium dog houses are extremely hot in the sunny weather making those two options a very cruel way to house your canine friend.

Nowadays the most popular and efficient option for exterior dog houses is still wooden or, if you fancy luxury dog houses or want to make a custom one, you can build your dog a  super cosy, isolated dog house, using the same  architectural and design techniques as if building a mini house for yourself. This can be a costly solution, but if that is not a problem for you, custom dog houses can be the safest way to make sure your dog is properly taken care of.
The idea of a custom housing for your dog is not all original and there are many different companies developing this type of products and services. You can now bring dog houses to a new level with customization.
Nevertheless, if you still love your pet very much but cannot afford to build him a two story with air condition house, the market has also more modest options that will keep your dog happy and well taken care of.

Interior dog houses can be exactly of the same type as the exterior ones- only they are placed inside your house- or they can be completely made out of smooth fabrics such as cotton, felt and sponge. They are very warm and comfortable dog houses, specially made for the confort of your dog without the need to think about the exterior weather conditions. Different form simple dog beds, those interior dog houses have the traditional four walls and one roof but they are made using very different materials.
All efforts to keep your furry family member happy are worth it and giving him the best housing you can is an act of love and respect. With such big an offer for dog houses, whatever your lifestyle, you can provide him with a safe and proper place to live. Dog houses don抰 need to fancy or expensive, just keep your dogs contort in mind.

Dog Genome May Shed Light On Human Disease

Scientists have succeeded in sequencing the dog genome, an accomplishment that could lead to better health for humans as well as canines. An international team of researchers have published their detailed analysis in the journal Nature.

“Of the more than 5,500 mammals living today, dogs are arguably the most remarkable,” says senior author Eric Lander, PhD, director of the Broad Institute at of MIT and Harvard. He is a professor of biology at MIT and systems biology at Harvard Medical School, as well as a member of the Whitehead Institute for Biomedical Research.

“The incredible physical and behavioral diversity of dogs — from Chihuahuas to Great Danes — is encoded in their genomes. It can uniquely help us understand embryonic development, neurobiology, human disease and the basis of evolution,” Dr. Lander notes.

Powerful Tool

“When compared with the genomes of human and other important organisms, the dog genome provides a powerful tool for identifying genetic factors that contribute to human health and disease,” says Francis S. Collins, MD, PhD, director of the National Human Genome Research Institute (NHGRI), which supported the research.

“This milestone is especially gratifying because it will also directly benefit veterinary researchers’ efforts to better understand and treat diseases afflicting our loyal canine companions,” Dr. Collins adds.

Humans domesticated the dog, Canis familiaris, from gray wolves as long as 100,000 years ago. As a result of selective breeding over the past few centuries, modern dog breeds present a model of diversity. From six-pound Chihuahuas to 120-pound Great Danes, from high-energy Jack Russell Terriers to mild-mannered basset hounds, and from Shetland sheepdogs with their herding instincts to pointers inclined to point, humans have bred dogs for desirable physical and behavioral traits.

Such breeding practices preserve preferred traits of one generation in the next, but they also predispose many dog breeds to genetic disorders, including heart disease, cancer, blindness, cataracts, epilepsy, hip dysplasia and deafness.

The research group found that while different breeds show amazing physical diversity, they often share large segments of their DNA, likely reflecting their recent shared origin. As a result, genetic tools being developed at the Broad Institute and NHGRI for any one breed of dog are likely to be useful in genetic experiments in nearly any breed.

Evolutionary Tree

While dogs occupy a special place in human hearts, they also sit at a key branch point, relative to humans, in the evolutionary tree. It was already known that humans share more of their ancestral DNA with dogs than with mice. The availability of the dog genome sequence has allowed researchers to describe a common set of genetic elements — representing about 5 percent of the human genome — that are preferentially preserved among human, dog and mouse.

Rather than being evenly distributed, some of these elements are crowded around just a small fraction of the genes in the genome. Future studies of these clusters may give scientists the critical insight needed to unravel how genomes work.

Elaine A. Ostrander, PhD, chief of NHGRI’s Cancer Genetics Branch, is a co-author of the Nature paper, along with postdoctoral research fellows, Heidi G. Parker and Nate B. Sutter. In addition, Dr. Ostrander is the lead author of the white paper that sets forth the biomedical rationale for sequencing the dog genome.

Dr. Ostrander’s laboratory maps genes responsible for susceptibility to cancer — including breast and prostate cancers — in canines and humans.

“The leading causes of death in dogs are a variety of cancers, and many of them are very similar biologically to human cancers.” says Dr. Ostrander. “Using the dog genome sequence in combination with the human genome sequence will help researchers to narrow their search for many more of the genetic contributors underlying cancer and other major diseases.”

Genetic Compass

Efforts to create the genetic tools needed for mapping disease genes in dogs have gained momentum over the last 15 years, and already include a partial survey of the poodle genome. More than two years ago, Kerstin Lindblad-Toh, PhD, co-director of the genome sequencing and analysis program at the Broad Institute, and colleagues embarked on a two-part project to assemble a complete map of the dog genome.

First, they acquired high-quality DNA sequence covering nearly 99 percent of the dog genome from a female boxer named Tasha. The boxer was chosen as a representative of the average purebred dog to produce what has become a reference sequence for the dog-genome community.

Using the sequence information as a genetic “compass,” they navigated the genomes of 10 different dog breeds and other related canine species, including the gray wolf and the coyote.

The researchers identified roughly 2.5 million single nucleotide polymorphisms, or SNPs, sprinkled throughout the dog genome. SNPs are variations in the DNA code, some of which contribute to diseases or the overall health of a dog.

SNPs also can be used to create a set of coordinates with which to survey genetic changes, both within and across dog breeds. These efforts revealed that individual breeds have maintained a large amount of genetic variability, despite their long history of restrictive breeding.

In practical terms, this means that future efforts to locate disease genes in dogs can be much narrower in scope than comparable human studies, requiring a smaller number of genetic markers and DNA samples collected from the blood or cheek from only a few hundred dogs.

Training Your Dog using a PetSafe Electric Dog fence

During Phase 2 Your dog can now experience the higher correction levels of the dog fence collar. Walk your dog within the containment area of the yard and praise + feed meat treats to him. Allow your dog to proceed toward the training flags. When your dog enters the signal field, he will experience an uncomfortable, but harmless, static correction. Since this correction may startle your dog, he may jump and yelp. This is normal. Make sure when this happens, you quickly pull your dog back into the containment area. The entire time you will need to have a smile on your face and praise him – make sure to feed a small hot dog bite. Play in the safe area and do not allow your dog to run back to the house. NEVER PULL OR CALL YOUR DOG INTO THE SIGNAL FIELD. Let him decide to enter or stay within the safe area.

You will need to begin to incorporate “set-ups” in your training sessions. A “set-up” is a situation that would normally tempt your dog to leave the yard, such as a person walking by and crossing the boundary, or another pet outside the boundary. These will teach your dog that he needs to pay attention to his whereabouts, regardless of the situation. Until now, the training has not been tested under conditions where your dog has a heightened level of desire. You may begin this training by having a family member walk out of the yard. Your dog should still be on a long leash and wearing his dog fence collar. Remember, DO NOT call your dog out of the boundary!

If your dog refuses to follow the family member, praise him warmly. HE IS LEARNING. If your dog decides to follow the family member, allow him to enter the signal field and receive a correction. Again, your dog may respond by jumping and yelping. Quickly pull him back into the safe area of the yard while smiling and praising on the way. Repeat the process with other “set-ups” such as other pets, a ball, a stick, etc… in various places around the yard. Use something that really excites your pet. Sometimes with dogs that have a high food drive, you can throw some lunch meat or a hot dog just past the flags. This process will cause your dog to make a choice and it is a critical point in his learning process.

If your dog is not responding when he enters the signal field, it is usually due to the dog fence collar being too loose, or his hair is to thick to make good probe to skin contact. If the dog fence collar is fitting properly and your dog does not respond when he enters the signal field, this usually means that the correction level is set too low. Adjust to a higher level. To help adjusting your Pet safe dog collar click here: http://www.discount-pet-superstore.com/outdoor/deluxe.htm

Before proceeding to Phase 3, be sure your dog is happy to run and play in the safe area of the yard and is avoiding the training flags, if not, spend an extra day or two on Phase 2.

Is your dog too stuck on you?

Being alone can be really frightening, especially when you are a kid. A natural reaction of a child when left alone is to cry. We have all gone through this when we were young, We were always glued to our parents, especially to our moms. We do not want to be away from them. This is human instinct since when we were born, our mom is the first person that we lay our eyes on. in fact, we’ve already formed an attachment when we were still inside our mother’s womb.

Being left alone can be very emotional and stressful. It can be a difficult experience. But this fear of being isolated is not only exclusively felt by human beings. Animals are no exception. Even dogs, considered to be man’s best friend, suffer the same emotional predicament.

Dogs are naturally social creatures, they are pack animals. Like babies that develop an attachment to their  mothers, dogs, too, develop a very strong bond with their canine female parents. These pups would only want to be with their turf, where the mother or father can guard them or provide food through the female dog’s mammary glands.  But once this canine family attachment is dissolved, the dog immediately turns its attention to their owner or caretaker.

Dogs that become too dependent on their owners also do not want to be left alone.  When dogs are left alone by their owners, they become really upset. As dog depression upset sets in, they become restless and even destructive  This condition is called Separation Anxiety.

Separation anxiety in dogs is one of the most common canine behavioral problems encountered by veterinarians and seasoned dog breeders.  Dogs can develop separation anxiety much faster if they do not have enough 搒ocialization?  It can also occur if a dog is repeatedly transferred from one owner to another.  Dogs that came from animal shelters and dogs that experienced traumatic events such as being in the house during a fire, during a burglary attempt, or while an alarm system sounded may show signs of anxiety.

A dog suffering from separation anxiety will become extremely anxious and distressed.  Some signs of distress in your dog may include any of the following:

?Excessive barking and whining when left alone
?Incessant chewing on variety of things and destroys objects
?Urinate, defecate and vomit in different locations in the house.
?Demands too much attention from you when you are at home
?Gets overly excited when you return home

Dogs that fail to cope with a sudden change in environment may also develop separation anxiety. It is often difficult to treat this condition because the behavior only occurs when the owner is not around. It can also be alarming when the owner leaves for an extended period of time.

Experts say that there are medications that can suppress anxiety. These are often used on dogs with severe separation anxiety or when owners simply must leave the dog alone for an extended period while treatment is being done. The use of drugs allows the dog to spend extended periods of time free of anxiety. A veterinarian should be consulted for further information about the use of safe and effective anxiety- suppressing drugs.

These are other ways to reduce separation anxiety in your dog:
?Make arrivals and departures very low key
?Give your dog something to do when he is alone
?Plan your exits
?Leave a radio or TV on so he can listen to human voices when left alone
?Confine your dog in a crate that will also serve him as shelter
?Exercise your dogs

It is important to take immediate measures once you suspect that your dog has this condition. Visit a veterinarian and inquire about a dog stress treatment program. Keep in mind that your pet’s disorder can be treated and that they also need proper care and attention. So, if you noticed that your dog is so stuck on you, you might consider taking your best friend?to the veterinarian.

How to Take Care of your Dog

The Bond that can come between a person and a dog can be extremely strong, especially if that bond had been strengthened living with each other for many years, I have personally cried after loosing our family dog that had been like a best friend to me from my birth till I as 15 years old, when he was hit by a car one morning.

Dogs serve many different needs for people. Some people get a dog because they are lonely and need a loyal friend or because they want a dog to protect the home. A dog that is taken good care of and given attention to regularly will give his life to help protect his home and his owner. For the blind a dog can be a pair of eyes to help them get around and for the police a dog can be an important tool and a loyal partner, with a nose that nothing can beat.

The first thing you need to know about taking care of a dog is that dogs need lots of exercise. This is the same for large dogs and small dogs. All dogs need to be let out at least once every 8 hours and should given at least a 20 minute walk to give the dog some fresh air, exercise and a chance to relieve themselves.

It is also important to play with the dog on a regular basis. This can mean going to the park on a weekend or day off and having a good game of fetch, tossing the ball around in your back yard or just wrestling on the ground with the dog, just make sure if you are ruff housing with a little dog that you don抰 accidentally hurt the dog. Playing with the dog for a half hour a day, is not only good for the dogs physical health but a dig that is played with regularly is mentally healthier and less likely to become a depressed dog, it also lowers your blood pressure as well and it will form an unbreakable bond between you and your pooch, which will extend to your family if you should start having one after having the dog.

What you feed your dog is very important to the dogs continued good health. The better dog foods will be marked for what are groups the food is appropriate for. Younger dogs need certain vitamins and minerals in larger amounts then an adult dog, and the same goes for an elderly dog they need more calcium in their food to help protect their bones and joints. Feeding your dog the wrong food can stunt the dog’s growth and opens the dog to a larger risk of surgery when they are older.

Just like a person a dog should be taken to the veterinarian’s office every 6 months, and must receive their shots every year. Regular checkups and vaccinations will also help assure that your dog grows to be an old happy dog.

How to choose a vet

Your vet is a pretty significant figure in your dog’s life – and thus, in yours. Hopefully, you’ll only ever need him or her for routine checkups and preventative procedures; but just in case, it’s worth taking the time to develop a good relationship with a suitable vet, before you need their services.

WHERE AT LOOK

Sure, you could just pick a vet at random from the Yellow Pages or from an Internet search; but having the right vet is crucial to your dog’s health and happiness (and, presumably, this plays at least some part in your own happiness and peace of mind as an owner, right?)

Think about it this way: if you were trying to choose a doctor for yourself, would you be happy to just select one at random from an impersonal list?

Probably not. You’d want somebody who comes highly recommended – somebody you feel like you can trust.
Your vet isn’t just your dog’s doctor; he or she is also the dentist, manicurist, psychologist, and – hopefully! – a friend. When you roll all these things up into one, you can see why it’s necessary to spend some time confirming that you’ve made the right choice.

The best place to start looking for a vet is by word of mouth. If you have any friends or relatives who take good care of their dogs, then that’s a great place to start: ask them who they’d recommend, and why. This last one is particularly important, because everyone has different priorities: for example, perhaps they like their own vet because he/she is a specialist in their own particular breed; or they don’t charge very much; or the clinic is only five minutes’ drive … their priorities are not necessarily yours, so it’s a good idea to make sure that your values coincide with the person giving the recommendations.

Another great place to find a vet is through local training clubs (Schutzhund, agility, herding classes, police K-9 academies, etc.) These organizations are almost guaranteed to place a great deal of importance on high-quality veterinary care, because the health and well-being of their dogs is such a priority.

Once you’ve got a list of vets that you’re interested in pursuing further, all you have to do is call up the clinic and explain that you’re looking to find a regular vet for your dog(s): can you come in for a quick chat, introduce your dog, and have a look at the premises?

HAVE A LOOK BEFORE YOU NEED TO

Before you decide to align yourself and your dog with a particular clinic, test the waters first. Ideally, you want a chance to talk to the vet, and discuss his or her philosophies and approach to pet care.

This is really important. If your dog ever really needs vet-care (if there’s an emergency, or if she needs an urgent short-term appointment), you want to be sure that you’ve made the best possible choice as far as her health and comfort levels are concerned. Neither of you should be subjected to any unnecessary extra stress at a time like that – and you can avoid a lot of grief by spending a bit of time in preparation.

THINGS TO ASK THE VET

While you’re at the clinic, you’ll want to be assessing your potential vet’s overall attitude and approach to health care and animals; and you’ll also probably want answers to some specific questions.

Here’s a list of useful questions to help you on your way:

– How many vets are there on staff? If you need to make an urgent appointment, you don’t want to be waiting around while precious minutes tick past. Ideally, there’ll be at least two qualified veterinarians on hand (not just technicians or assistants.)

– What kind of testing and analysis capabilities does the clinic have If they have to send away to a lab for this kind of stuff, it means that the results are going to be delayed. If your dog is very sick, time is an important factor: it’s best if the clinic has at least blood-analysis testing on hand.

– What after-hours services are available? A lot of clinics close the doors in the evenings and on weekends, which means that if there’s an emergency, you’ll have to go somewhere else – and subject your dog (and yourself) to an unfamiliar vet. (If you don’t mind this, then that’s fine; but be aware that in a high-stress situation when emotions are running high, it’s reassuring for your dog and yourself to deal with someone familiar.)

– What’s their price range? How are payments made? Is there a facility for payment plans in case of unexpected vet bills? The payment-plan option is particularly important. Even with pet insurance, vet bills can sometimes be astronomical – and not everyone has the resources to deal with large vet bills straight away. Ask the clinic how they cater for situations like that.

– How up-to-date is the staff with advances in the industry? Do the vet, the technicians, and the assistants attend seminars and workshops regularly? The field of medical care is always moving forward – responsible vets make the effort to keep up with the times, and see that their staff do, too.

MAKING THE RIGHT CHOICE

When you choose a vet, you’re balancing convenience and quality. There’s no right or wrong vet for you and your dog – which is partly why making the choice can be so confusing. There are lots of vets to choose from, and they’re all different!

Even though it’s tempting to go for the one right around the corner with the rock-bottom prices, it really is worthwhile taking the time to shop around. Your dog is utterly dependent on you for her healthcare – and if you take her seriously as a companion and member of the family, you’ll want to do the best thing by her.

A good vet knows how to take care of you as well as your dog. The relationship that you have with your vet will hopefully be one that’s based around a healthy mutual respect and positive synergy – there should be very little scope for misunderstanding. When the two of you see eye to eye, it makes caring for your dog that much easier.

FURTHER READING

For a complete survival guide on stress-free dog care, including detailed information on when your dog needs to see the vet, how to respond to pet emergencies, dog First Aid, and all common health problems, check out The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health. It’s a complete handbook on dog health care, and teaches you how to take a proactive and prepared approach to knowledgeable dog ownership.

You can visit The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health by clicking on the link below:
*http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dog-health/

Ultimate Pet Directory
Pet Training

External parasites and their treatments

WHAT IS A PARASITE?

External parasites are pretty common among dogs. A parasite is an organism that lives off the resources your dog has to offer: namely, fresh blood (which most parasites drink) and a warm place to stay (in and on the skin and fur).

What are the common parasites that might affect my dog?
There are a wide range of parasites that affect dogs:

– Fleas
– Ticks
– Mites
– Lice

All of these parasites cause adverse reactions in your dog: typically, itching and inflamed skin, a dull coat, and bald spots. In advanced cases, your dog may develop anemia (blood loss) and become generally debilitated (particularly if he or she is very young, very old, or suffering from another condition).

In addition to this, many parasites convey secondary and internal parasites to your dog – for example, fleas usually carry the common tapeworm (which causes constipation and flatulence), and ticks can cause a variety of much more serious problems like Lyme’s disease and paralysis.

In today’s newsletter, we’re going to be looking at fleas: what they are, how to tell if your dog’s affected, and how to get rid of them.

A CLOSER LOOK AT FLEAS

Fleas are without question the number-one most common external parasite affecting dogs. They’re small, jumping insects that are light brown in color, although humans generally can’t see them – they move much too quickly for that!

Fleas live off your dog’s blood. The life cycle of a flea moves very rapidly from stage one (egg) to stage four (adult flea), which means they’re capable of multiplying with staggering rapidity.

An adult flea lays hundreds of eggs per day. Each egg will then become an adult flea, which lay hundreds more eggs of its own. One flea becomes a major problem very quickly!

HOW TO TELL IF YOUR DOG HAS FLEAS

The symptoms of a flea infestation are unmistakable.
A dog with a flea infestation will scratch almost constantly, often at areas that fleas seem to favor: the ears, the base of the tail, the belly, and the stifle (the webbing of soft skin between the thigh and the abdomen).

It’s actually the saliva of the flea that causes the irritation, not the bite itself, and some dogs have a genuine allergy to this saliva (as opposed to a standard irritation). Dogs with allergies suffer much more significant negative reactions to a flea infestation, and usually develop “hot spots”.

These hot spots are areas of sore, inflamed, flaking, bleeding, and infected skin, caused by the flea saliva and your dog’s own reaction to it. Bald patches will sometimes develop too, from repeated scratching and ongoing inflammation.

If you think your dog has fleas, you can confirm your suspicions by taking a closer look at his skin: you probably won’t be able to see the fleas themselves, but you should be able to see what looks like ground pepper (a thin sprinkling of fine black grains) on his skin. This is flea dirt (poop).

If you groom him with a flea comb (which is like a fine-tooth comb), try wiping it on a paper towel: if red blotches show up on the towel, you know that your dog has fleas (on a white background like a paper towel, flea poop shows up red: since fleas subsist on blood, their poop is colored accordingly).

TREATMENT FOR FLEAS

Because fleas only spend a small amount of time actually on your dog, and the rest of their time leaping through your house laying eggs and feeding on human blood, it’s not enough to just treat the dog: you also have to target his bedding, the entire house, all human bedding, and the yard (yes, fleas lay eggs all through the yard, too. Even if it’s cold outside, you’re not necessarily off the hook: cold weather doesn’t kill flea eggs, it just puts them into a state of hibernation. The eggs will hatch as soon as it gets warm enough outside.)

You’ll need a broad-spectrum treatment which kills not only the adult fleas (which are the ones that bite), but also any developing fleas, and the eggs.

PREVENTION IS THE BEST (AND THE EASIEST!)

Prevention is definitely the best cure – you should keep your dog’s flea treatments up to date with the use of a calendar, and use a treatment that’s prescribed by the vet. Off-the-shelf treatments aren’t recommended, since different dogs require different strengths depending on their size, age, and activity levels. A particular benefit of prescribed flea treatment is that most are also designed to prevent other parasites (like mites, ticks, and heartworm) from affecting your dog.

FOR AN EXISTING INFESTATION

If your dog already has fleas, you have two options:

– You can ‘bomb’ the house and yard with a flea-pesticide. These come as foggers (which coat each room, and the yard, in a fine mist of pesticide) and sprays (which are applied manually to each surface throughout the house and yard), and although they’re very effective in killing fleas and eggs, there’s one major drawback: they’re highly toxic to humans, dogs, and the environment. Depending on your priorities, this is probably the quickest solution to a flea problem (and will effectively wipe out the eggs, too) but if you have anyone in the house with allergies or a health condition – including pets! – you might want to think again.

– A more health-friendly alternative is to target the dog with a topical anti-flea solution prescribed by the vet (like Advantage or Revolution), and to rigorously clean the house on a regular basis until the flea problem has gone. This means vacuuming each room thoroughly each day – put a flea collar in with the vacuum bag to kill any fleas that get sucked up – and wash all human and dog bedding in hot water as often as you can (once every day or every two days is recommended). You’ll be able to tell when the problem’s gone because your dog won’t be scratching, and his coat will be clear of flea dirt when you inspect it.

WHAT NOT TO DO ABOUT FLEAS

– Don’t use multiple products on your dog – it’ll make him sick, since you’ll be overloading his system with toxins.
– Don’t forget to treat all the animals in the house at the same time: cat and dog fleas are interchangeable, and if one animal has fleas, they all will have them, even if some are not displaying the symptoms.
– Flea collars are no longer recommended as a safe option for flea prevention, since the collars are highly toxic – vets have realized that placing a toxic material directly against your pet’s skin for long periods of time (flea collars have to be worn 24/7 to be effective) is detrimental to your dog’s health.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON PARASITES AND THEIR TREATMENT…

Fleas are just one of the many, many types of parasites that affect your dog. To find out more about the complete prevention and treatment of all types of parasites (external and internal), as well as a comprehensive guide to all aspects of dog health, take a look at The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health.

This book is an invaluable resource for the responsible dog owner, and will help you to ensure that your dog remains happy and healthy – just the way you want him to be!

You can check out the book by clicking on the link below:
*http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dog-health/

How to Wash Your Dog

Even if you’ve got the most easy-care dog in the world, she’ll still need some attention to be paid to her appearance every once in a while – so it’s worth spending a bit of time learning the best techniques for easy, stress-free grooming.

WHY SHOULD I BOTHER GROOMING MY DOG?

Not so long ago, the average American’s approach to canine grooming was somewhat cavalier. Dogs were seen as something that lived in the yard (usually in a dusty, hard-floored kennel), ate whatever was put in their bowls, and existed as a sometime-playmate for the household’s children.

Today, we tend to care for our dogs a lot more, and view them more as members of the household than the Thing in the Yard.

Ever since this rise in the estimation of our beloved pooches became widespread, grooming has been increasingly recognized as an important facet of your dog’s regular health-care. It ensures that any skin-care problems are minimized (because grooming distributes the natural skin-oils evenly throughout the coat), and assists you in monitoring your dog’s overall condition – if you groom on a regular basis, you can’t help but notice the presence of any unusual lumps or bumps.

This preventative action has saved many a canine life. Our dogs can’t tell us where it hurts, but taking just a little bit of time every so often to check them over ourselves can save a lot of grief in the long run.

The trick is getting your dog to tolerate (and even enjoy!) the process …

THE FIRST STEP IN THE GROOMING PROCESS

Something that many owners lack experience in is how to wash their dogs. Dry-grooming (brushing and ‘buffing’ the coat) seems to present little problem for most people; the rot tends to set in when water is introduced to the mix.

Most dogs have a strong dislike of being bathed, and in many cases will become utterly panic-stricken when the tub comes out.

This article is going to deal with the basics of how to wash your dog in a way that’ll keep both of you relaxed and happy.

PREPARING YOUR DOG FOR GROOMING

First of all, the absolute most important thing you can do is to accustom your dog to the grooming process. Now, starting this in puppyhood is the ideal way to handle the situation, but of course not all of us have this luxury; if you’ve got an adult dog, you’ll probably need to move a little slower, but you should still start getting her used to being touched and handled all over as soon as you can.

As your puppy or dog gets used to the sensation of being rubbed and handled, she’ll slowly come to enjoy it. Dogs are social creatures by instinct, and physical affection and contact is a big part of their lives – it shouldn’t take long before she begins to trust you, and allows herself to get some pleasure out of your touch.

All you have to do is start rubbing her slowly all over. Fondle her ears, touch her cheeks and neck, rub her back and belly, pick up her paws and – if she’ll let you – give each one a gentle squeeze (treating and praising her whenever she lets you do this, since paw touching is generally a pretty big deal for most dogs). If she has a tail, rub it between your fingers; get her to roll over on her back so you can rub and stroke her belly and hocks.

This might not seem like such a big deal, but it’s actually a really important part of the grooming process: the more your dog enjoys it, the less stressful the whole event will be for both of you, and so the more often you’re likely to groom her – which increases the health benefits for her.

HOW TO WASH YOUR DOG

Bathing always comes before dry-grooming, since it makes brushing and trimming a lot easier as well as a lot more effective (there’s not much point in brushing a tangled, dirty coat!)

You will need some basic tools: a tub, a non-slip mat, a plastic jug, some warm water, a small sponge, and some canine shampoo (not human shampoo: the pH is all wrong for dogs, and will give her dry and flaky skin.)

Stand her in the tub, on the non-slip mat. If she’s a large or unruly dog, you may want to wash her outside to minimize mess – either that, or you can restrain her by tying one end of a light nylon leash to her collar, and the other end to the faucet.

Pour jugs of warm water all over her until she’s good and wet. This breaks down the grease in her fur, and ensures a thorough shampooing.

Mix a little shampoo with another jug of warm water, and rub it thoroughly into your dog’s fur. Start off with her back and rub it into a good lather (but don’t be too harsh!)

Now you can move on to her head and face. Be very careful here – dogs’ eyes are sensitive too, and if you get any water in her ears, she’ll probably get an ear infection. (You can plug her ears with a small twist of cotton wool to help stop this from happening, if you like.)

Remember to clean under her tail before you wash her off – dip the sponge into the shampoo mixture to do this properly.

Now it’s time to rinse: using the jug and some clean, warm, shampoo-free water, carefully tip it all over her and use your fingers to help disperse the lather from her coat. Rinse her off thoroughly at least twice, since any residue that remains will irritate her skin.

Now you’ll need to dry her off: if she’s got short fur, you can use a towel (an old one will do just fine, although big dogs generally need two); for dogs with longer fur, give her a gentle toweling-off first, and then use a hair dryer to get rid of the last dampness. Be certain that it’s set on low heat, and hold it far away from your dog’s fur to prevent burning either the skin or the fur.

KEEP YOURSELF CALM

Remember that most dogs have an inherent dislike of being bathed, which can cause anxiety and even outright panic.

Your dog takes a lot of her emotional cues from you, so make sure you act like a good role model for the occasion. Reassure your dog frequently, keeping your voice well-modulated, low, and even; keep your movements slow and deliberate; praise her lavishly for good behavior, and give her a couple of treats throughout the process to make it more enjoyable for her.

The more she enjoys the process, the easier it’ll be for you!

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Grooming your dog is just one tiny aspect of maintaining overall health and happiness. For a complete, encyclopedic survival guide to all aspects of dog health, from preventative care to choosing a vet to doggie First Aid (even the canine Heimlich maneuver!), you should take a look at The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health.

A survival guide for knowledgeable, effective, and life-saving dog care, this manual keeps your dog’s health and wellbeing firmly within your control – which is exactly where you want it to be.

To be the best and most responsible owner you can be, take a look at The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health.

You can visit the website by clicking on the link below:
*http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dog-health/

Paper training your dog: How to do it and common problems

What’s paper training?

Paper training is a specific form of house training for your dog: you’re teaching her where in the house is appropriate for her to eliminate (pee or poop). When you paper train your dog, you teach her to only eliminate on newspapers (chosen for their absorbency, ready availability, and cheap cost) which you gather up and throw away after each use.

What options other than paper training do I have for my dog’s house training?
There are two ways of effectively, efficiently, and rapidly house training your dog. Paper training is one; the other is something called crate training.

Crate training is based on a dog’s basic dislike of soiling where she sleeps, and involves restricting the dog’s movement (by putting her in a crate, or small indoor kennel) whenever she cannot be actively supervised.

The difference between crate training and house training?

Paper training and crate training aren’t the same thing. Crate training is where you train your dog to only go outside; paper training is where you train your dog to only go on newspapers.

You cannot train your dog to do both at the same time – the two are mutually exclusive. She’ll get confused, and you’ll only prolong the training process.

You can choose to use paper training as an intermediary step for eventually only eliminating outside (although not everyone recommends this: it’s easier on the dog, and more effective all round, to choose one method and stick with it.)

Why should I choose paper training instead of crate training?

Crate training and paper training are both effective ways to house train your dog.

In general, it’s accepted (by most dog trainers and vets) that crate training is the fastest method of house training your dog; but it requires a considerable investment of time and effort, which is not an option for everyone.

Paper training is the best option for you if:

– You don’t have easy access to a yard (for example, you live in a hi-rise apartment block)

– It’s not easy for you to take your dog outside for any other reason (for example, elderly or unwell people)

– You have a full-time job, or other time-consuming commitment which can’t be got around (meaning that you’re not able to spend the large amounts of time supervising your dog that crate training requires)

– You’re planning on training your dog to go outside the house eventually, but not just yet (for example, it’s the dead of winter with four-foot snow drifts outside)

Crate training is the best option for you if:

– You have a medium to big dog

– You are able to spend a lot of time during your puppy’s first weeks of house training in actively supervising her, and are available during the day to let her out of the crate at two- or three-hour intervals

– You want to train your dog to go outside the house right from the start

Paper training isn’t suitable for all dogs: it really only works for small males and small-to-medium females, since a dog larger than these just produces too much waste for the newspaper (and you!) to handle.

How to paper train your dog?

First, pick a convenient area of the house for your dog to use as the elimination area. Because she’s going to be peeing and pooping in this area, it’s best if you can choose somewhere without carpet: most people choose a corner of the kitchen or laundry (since these rooms usually have tiled or linoleum floors, making hygiene a non-issue.)

Spread newspaper thickly in a corner of this room. At first, you’ll need to make the newspaper area pretty big, since your pup has no idea that she’s meant to go on the paper at all.

To make sure that she’s able to eliminate only on the paper, you’ll either need to restrict her movements to the papered area of the floor (which you can do by erecting barriers to keep her in – if the room you’ve chosen is large or busy, this is probably the most user-friendly option for you), or paper the whole floor (which is a viable option if the paper-room is small and there’s not much thoroughfare.)

At first, your puppy will eliminate pretty much at random on the paper. It’s important for the paper-training process that she only gets to go on the paper – you need her to form a strong association between the feeling of paper under her toes, and relieving herself.

After a week or two, you can begin to shrink the papered area of the floor, allowing her more access to unpapered surfaces (leave the barriers where they are for now so she doesn’t get the chance to eliminate anywhere else.)

Do this gradually, a couple of sheets at a time. If you’ve given her enough time to get used to the paper, she should naturally restrict her elimination areas as the papered area shrinks.

NOTE: If at any time she begins to eliminate off the paper, then increase the size of the papered floor surface to the size it was when she was still eliminating only on the paper, and give her more time to get used to it before beginning to reduce the papered area again.

There’s no need to panic: this doesn’t mean that the paper training isn’t working, it just means you’re moving a bit too fast for your puppy’s capabilities.

Most dogs take a couple of months (eight to twelve weeks) to get used to the paper training method. Until she’s reliably going on the papers only, you should restrict her access to the rest of the house unless you’re actively supervising her- which means 100% of your attention is focused on the pup.

In general, a good rule of thumb is that your puppy is confined to the papered area unless she’s sleeping, eating, or being played with/actively supervised.

Things you should do are

– Praise her effusively whenever you see her eliminating on the paper. Wait ’til she’s done (so you don’t distract her!) and praise her, pet her, and give her a treat.

– If you catch her in the act of eliminating off-paper, this is actually a great opportunity for training development. Interrupt her with a clap, loud verbalization (“Ah-ah-aaaah!”), or slap your open palm loudly on the wall. This will startle her – in most cases, she’ll actually stop mid-toilet and hunch down. Scoop her up immediately and put her on the paper. When she finishes, praise her hugely and give her a treat.

– If you come across an accident after the fact (a wet spot or pile on the unpapered floor), you’ve missed your window of opportunity to teach her not to do this. You can’t tell her off in this case, because she won’t understand what she’s done wrong; all you can do is clean it up and supervise her more carefully. If this is happening a lot, you’ve given her too much freedom in the house and not enough supervision: restrict her access to the unpapered floor, and step up the supervision.

– Feed her at specific, scheduled times (for example, a meal at 8 am, 1 pm, and 7 pm) to encourage her to develop an “elimination timetable”.

For further information on house training your dog, including a detailed look at paper training and crate training, check out The Ultimate House Training Guide.

It’s the complete dog-house-training guide. The Ultimate House Training Guide and comes highly recommended.

You can visit the The Ultimate House Training Guide site by clicking this link:
*http://www.kingdomofpets.com/doghousetraining/